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The Library => Haley Center Basement => Topic started by: GarMan on June 25, 2011, 12:53:10 PM
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Yeah... It's what it says. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about running electricity and coax outdoors?
I'm looking to run about a 100 yard drop from my house down to the lake. There's already electricity run down there, but there's a considerable voltage drop over that distance using 14 gauge. I can't pull enough current to run an air compressor or other tools. I'm looking at upgrading to 10 gauge.
The coax would be used for some security cameras. In the IT world, anything more than 300 feet is sketchy and falls out of the standards, but I don't know about video. I'm certain that there would be signal degradation over that distance, but would it be significant?
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12 Gauge on a 20 amp Breaker would be the largest you could go with for 120v. I'd run a 60 amp breaker on your house use 8 gauge stranded and put in a small box at your destination. That way you would have 220 to the box and you could run several things on that with their on breakers. The box you could get for less than 50 bucks. You could also run 220V 30 amp with 10 gauge put in a very small box with no more than two 20 amp breakers and have two good 120 outlets. The 10 Gauge is your cheaper route.
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10 gauge, 11 gauge. Whatever it takes.
(http://hagiblog.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/mr_mom_01.jpg)
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10 gauge, 11 gauge. Whatever it takes.
(http://hagiblog.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/mr_mom_01.jpg)
Mr. Mom was the shit.
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You are hosed. 300 ft of 8 - 10 G wire will break the bank. If you are going to spend that much. Bury it I PVC also. But yeah 30 amp wire over that distance will prolly only give you 20 amps. Might be cheaper to get a used generator and use that.
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solar power.
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On the coax side you should be fine...you could also run Cat5 if the cameras take component.
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12 Gauge on a 20 amp Breaker would be the largest you could go with for 120v. I'd run a 60 amp breaker on your house use 8 gauge stranded and put in a small box at your destination. That way you would have 220 to the box and you could run several things on that with their on breakers. The box you could get for less than 50 bucks. You could also run 220V 30 amp with 10 gauge put in a very small box with no more than two 20 amp breakers and have two good 120 outlets. The 10 Gauge is your cheaper route.
Why is the 12 gauge on a 20 amp for 120v the largest? Wouldn't 10 gauge wire have less resistance and limit voltage/current drop? BTW, 20 amp is all that I really need at the lake. Just enough to run a small air compressor or mig welder.
I am considering your last option, but I wasn't planning to run 220v. The cost of wire is a bit more than 120v.
You are hosed. 300 ft of 8 - 10 G wire will break the bank. If you are going to spend that much. Bury it I PVC also. But yeah 30 amp wire over that distance will prolly only give you 20 amps. Might be cheaper to get a used generator and use that.
Considering it, but it's a pain in the a$$.
solar power.
Actually considered it to keep fulltime power on the dock. Anyone who has looked into it knows that the cost of the solar and battery array would would cost thousands. Solar technology is not yet viable for significant application. I don't care what the enviro-zealots claim.
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Actually considered it to keep fulltime power on the dock. Anyone who has looked into it knows that the cost of the solar and battery array would would cost thousands. Solar technology is not yet viable for significant application. I don't care what the enviro-zealots claim.
Wind power
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Wind power
You do realize how much beans cost these days don't you?
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Typically in your house all wall outlets and lights are 15 amp using 12-14 gauge wire. Your Microwave outlet in new homes has to be a stand alone outlet on 12 gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker. 10 gauge is mostly in 220V service for Hotwater Heaters, Air Conditioners, Table Saws etc. and it is usually on a 30 amp breaker. I kind of misread what you was wanting it for. You can use 10 on a 20 amp breaker and it would probably give you the extra voltage. After you run it if you still aren't getting it you could hook it up as 220 use the white as your second hot and use a common neutral between 2 outlets. That way you would use 1 wire but have two legs of 120. Two outlets with its each 120 leg would be a cheap way to accomplish this. The reason I say 20 amps is that most appliances would not trip out the 30 amp if there was a problem and could be a fire hazard.
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Typically in your house all wall outlets and lights are 15 amp using 12-14 gauge wire. Your Microwave outlet in new homes has to be a stand alone outlet on 12 gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker. 10 gauge is mostly in 220V service for Hotwater Heaters, Air Conditioners, Table Saws etc. and it is usually on a 30 amp breaker. I kind of misread what you was wanting it for. You can use 10 on a 20 amp breaker and it would probably give you the extra voltage. After you run it if you still aren't getting it you could hook it up as 220 use the white as your second hot and use a common neutral between 2 outlets. That way you would use 1 wire but have two legs of 120. Two outlets with its each 120 leg would be a cheap way to accomplish this. The reason I say 20 amps is that most appliances would not trip out the 30 amp if there was a problem and could be a fire hazard.
Before I make the plunge... What about the ground? Should I use the grounding from the house, or should I consider a new ground rod at the lake? I'm not sure if it matters.
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Before I make the plunge... What about the ground? Should I use the grounding from the house, or should I consider a new ground rod at the lake? I'm not sure if it matters.
If you run the wire into a satellite box, code says to have a separate ground. But if you just terminate into an outlet, you should be cOvered by the source's ground.